Installing the AutoDrive on the Mark 7 Apex 10 (Part 2 of 2)
Welcome back to Jim's Armory. This is part two of Jim's two-part series installing the Mark 7 AutoDrive onto his Apex 10 reloading press. In part one, Jim mounted the Apex 10 onto the AutoDrive and set up the prime sense, swage sense, and decap sense. In this video, he tackles the remaining sensors: BulletSense, the powder check sensor, and the primer orientation sensor, before finishing with cable management and a live test run. As Jim notes up front, he's not sponsored by or affiliated with Mark 7 or Lyman - this is just his own documented experience as a regular guy with minimal reloading background putting the machine together, mistakes included.
BulletSense: Laser Alignment Trial and Error Jim starts with what he believes is the last sensor to install, the laser-powered BulletSense. Mounting hardware includes a reflector with a plastic spacer for the back of the machine, and two different screw lengths - the longer one is needed for this application. He removes a screw from the left side of the spring cup bracket using a 3/16 hex wrench to install the reflector, and since it slides back and forth, he just centers it and tightens down.
The front bracket holds the laser itself, secured with a 1/8 inch Allen screw and a knurled thumb screw, both with washers added. The thumb screw rides in an elongated hole so you can aim the laser at the mirror. This cable runs to port number three.
Getting the alignment right takes some real trial and error. Jim finds the mirror isn't aiming straight at the laser, so he loosens small screws on the mirror to adjust the angle. Even with the mirror perfectly straight, the laser is off to the left and not centered over where the bullet sits in the shell plate. He works the adjustment screws, which move the laser in an X pattern - but since you're looking at a mirror reflection, the adjustment direction is the opposite of what you'd expect.
Pro-Tip: Use a small piece of cardboard or a tongue depressor to see exactly where the laser is hitting while you're aligning it.
Once aligned, Jim sets the height by loosening a lock collar and two thumb screws, then tapping the assembly down in tiny increments until the returning laser beam just barely stops registering on a properly seated bullet.
Jim also clarifies a point he felt Mark 7's own video didn't spell out clearly enough: the laser emitter should shoot over the top of the bullet, and the reflection off the mirror should be blocked by just the tip of the bullet. If the bullet is sideways, upside down, or missing, the light comes back and hits the sensor just below the emitter. After confirming this with test rounds - including one loaded upside-down and one sideways - and running the press through a cycle, the sensor correctly halts operation on the bad round.
Powder Check Sensor: Getting the Right Probe Next up is the powder check sensor, which goes into port number four. The kit includes probe tips for small rifle, large rifle, and small pistol, plus two lengths - two long and two short. Jim notes the tips look nearly identical at a glance, but the pistol tip has a slightly bigger, longer hole once you look closely. He selects the smaller probe sized for 9mm.
Pro-Tip: Look very carefully at the probe tip holes side by side - the difference in size is subtle enough to miss if you're not paying attention.
After threading the micro rod and die assembly onto the mount and leveling it, Jim runs an empty case through and gets a "case powder level incorrect" alert as expected. He then simulates a heavy charge and confirms the sensor also catches an overcharge correctly.
Primer Orientation Sensor: The Toughest Install The primer orientation sensor proves to be the most involved job of the video, since it requires removing the tool head and shell plate for the first time. Jim references the Mark 7 Reloading channel's existing video on shell plate removal rather than covering every detail himself.
The install starts with removing an aluminum filler block near the primer station - tight quarters, with screws that go in from underneath. Jim then installs two springs included with the kit, applying Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease as recommended. The larger spring goes in the back, the smaller one in front, with a metal actuator on the rear spring. The sensor itself sits over the pin on the rear spring before everything gets screwed back down.
On the case feed side, Jim identifies the small actuator that pushes a pin up to measure primer depth, then levels the sensor. This connects to port number two. Testing with an unprimed case triggers the correct "case not present or primer not seated properly" alert, and a properly primed case cycles through without issue.
Remote Stop and Cable Management Jim also installs the remote stop, a roughly $30 add-on he included when he checked every option box while ordering the AutoDrive - cheap insurance, in his view. It connects to port number six.
With sensors wired in, Jim tackles the resulting mess of cables. Rather than using the included zip ties, which he dislikes because you have to cut them to make future changes, he opts for Velcro brand straps for easier long-term adjustments.
Running the Press With everything wired and organized, Jim runs the press to confirm all the sensors are functioning together as expected.
Final Thoughts Jim comes away impressed with the AutoDrive, calling the setup process an "epic journey" and genuinely enjoyable despite the challenges - particularly the primer orientation sensor and the BulletSense laser alignment, which took him a couple of hours to sort out. His advice for anyone installing all the sensors: do it before fully assembling the machine, and consider laying it on its side so you can access everything more easily. He also credits the Mark 7 and Ultimate Reloader videos as helpful references, while noting a few gaps he hopes this video fills in.
Thanks for following along on this one - if you found it useful, like and subscribe, and consider supporting other 2A content creators too. Stay tuned for more from Jim's Armory.
